Rosehip Seed Oil | INCI: Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil (Rosa Canina Oil, Rose Hip Oil, 玫瑰果油)
Quick Specs
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil / Rosa Canina Fruit Oil |
| CAS Number | 84696-47-9 / 84603-93-0 |
| Appearance | Clear, pale yellow to deep golden orange/reddish liquid |
| Odor | Characteristic, slightly earthy/nutty |
| Recommended pH | Not applicable (anhydrous lipid) |
Executive Summary
Rosehip Seed Oil (Rosa Rubiginosa) is a highly specialized, polyunsaturated botanical lipid valued in dermatological and advanced cosmetic formulations for its exceptional fatty acid profile and unique trace actives. Distinguished as a natural tretinoin source, it contains endogenous trans-retinoic acid (all-trans retinoic acid), making it a potent active carrier for cellular turnover, scar attenuation, and photoaging mitigation without the severe erythema typically associated with synthetic retinoids.
As a high linoleic oil (comprising approximately 40-50% Linoleic Acid and 30-35% Alpha-Linolenic Acid), it is a critical structural precursor for epidermal ceramide synthesis (Ceramide 1). Formulators prefer this ingredient over heavier botanical oils due to its rapid penetration kinetics, “dry” sensorial profile, and ability to repair impaired stratum corneum barrier function while actively downregulating sebum production in acneic profiles.
Formulation Guidelines
To ensure maximum efficacy and stability within your cosmetic matrix, adhere to the following parameters:
- Recommended Usage Rate: 1.0% – 10.0% in emulsions; up to 100% in anhydrous facial oils.
- Solubility: Soluble in oil and polar esters; insoluble in water.
- Phase Integration: Highly susceptible to oxidation. Add to the cool-down phase (< 40°C) of emulsions. Do not subject to prolonged heating.
- Stabilization: Formulations must include antioxidants (e.g., 0.1-0.5% Tocopherol or Rosemary Oleoresin Extract) to prevent rancidity and extend shelf life. Store in a cool, dark environment.
Primary Applications
This versatile lipid is recommended for inclusion in the following product categories:
- Anti-Aging: High-performance serums and barrier repair emulsions targeting fine lines and hyperpigmentation.
- Dermatological Recovery: Post-procedure and scar-treatment balms designed to accelerate tissue remodeling.
- Blemish Control: Acne-focused non-comedogenic facial oils utilizing its high linoleic acid content to balance sebum.
- Night Care: Lipid-replenishing night creams that leverage the nocturnal repair cycle.
- Body Care: Specialized stretch mark treatments and body contouring formulations.
